Friday, January 22, 2010

Luang Prabang





After a two day slow boat ride from Huay Xai the forest lined banks of the Mekong River suddenly changed into a city. Walking up the concrete pavement from the pier, one arrives at the entrance to the former Royal Palace now the National Museum. It was magical and that must have been the experience of every traveller who took that route.

The city was lined with french colonial houses and dotted with several temples (Wats). The old houses are now converted to restaurants and boutique hotels. It is good that it is a world heritage site so that much of the colonial architecture is preserved. Sala Prabang is a hotel along the river bank. It is conveniently located to the usual tourist spots around the city. a former resident of the first Lao prime minister, the architecture is superb and matches the climate of the area with huge french windows and elegant slanting roofs and large open courtyards. Except for the tough beef teppanyaki on new years dinner, the place is a steal for the price.

Primarily a Buddhist community, the temples and the monks play a major role in the lives of the people. Most monks enter the monastery because they could not afford a good education and because they could not feed themselves. Everyday at dawn, the monks walk through the streets receiving alms from devotees. The practice becomes a tourist havoc when there are a lot of tourists disturbing the solemnity of the ritual with their cameras and gawking. But try watching in a regular day in a far part of town and you will surely enjoy the solemnity of the event.

As Derek of White Elephant puts its, you can never do justice to Luang Prabang with the usual 3 day stopover. Staying longer means, catching the sunrise and sunset at Mount Phousi, being able to see the three waterfalls, ride an elephant, visit the Pak Ou caves and marvel at the life along the river banks, visit an abandoned temple, trek through the tribal villages, more time to shop at the night Hmong market.

Lao cuisine is similar to Thai and not a long shot to Filipino. Imagine eating in Villa Santi and choosing from the royal menu a dish that turned out to be chicken curry. I suggest eating at Tamarind for authentic Lao dishes. Try the dipping sauce or the traditional Lao dishes platter. The waiter will gladly teach you how to eat the food and explain each dish. The Lao coffee at the plaza and the baguette sandwiches are good fares after a walk or a bike ride around the city.

Yes do come to Luang Prabang before it becomes extrememly fashionable and touristy. Taste and Luxuriate in Culture.

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