Dumaguete, Apo Island

All I know about Dumaguete used to come from my readings and its fame as the very first city to offer a writing workshop in Silliman University. Images of a tree lined boulevard by the sea and the iconic Silliman Hall are staples of documentaries and picture books on dumaguete. Beyond these, Dumaguete offers a myriad of places and activities to fill up a vacation without being bored. Being groomed as the next tourist itirenary with its neighboring Cebu and Bohol, Dumaguete is on the right tract.

By now the city has a very cosmopolitan air. With tourist flocking the area near the sea and expats with their Filipino wives building beach resort after beach resort along the shore.

I hope it does not suffer the fate of Boracay. At any rate it was good that I have been there first before that happens.

When in Dumaguete:
1. Visit the St. Catherine of Alexandra Church and the famous belfry.
2. Visit the mini-zoo which houses flying foxtrot (the inspiration for dracula turning into bats), the rare Philippine spotted deer and the wild boar.
3. Visit the seaside resorts like Santa Monica
4. Visit the mountain resort Forrest Camp.
5. Visit the Silliman marine life museum.
6. Take a Silliman University tour. See the iconic Silliman Hall. The very old water fountain. The teacher and student dorms. The grounds with old acacia trees. They say although the College of Music has only one student it was not phased out because it was the oldest college in the university.
Walking the grounds, I am reminded of the Ninotchka Rosca's short story of the lady violin teacher having an affair with her student on a southern university town. At last this could be the place of inspiration.
7. Eat at Malatapay. Original home of the Sutukil. Take one fish a make soup from the head, grill the tail and toast the belly in vinegar. That's sugba (grill) tula (make soup) and kilawin. Every wednesday is market day. The place turns into a festive chaotic scene of a fiesta reenacted every week. With rows of stalls selling fresh seafood and livestock and vegetables from the mountains and the nearby islands. Get the feshest seafood and vegetables and ask you favorite cook the prepare them exactly the way you like it.
8. APO ISLAND. If you are into snorkeling and diving, this is the place to be. Not for the faint hearted though. Be ready for a rough boat trip to the island with constant spraying of seawater as the boat splashes against the waves even on calm days. The snorkeing area is fantastic. Although not as good as El Nido. Except for the rough waves and sharp rocks that caused my bruises while maneuvering into the waters, it was a good experience. Take a picture from the rock formation in the island and then buy t-shirts from the lady vendors. Plan to go early in the morning because the waves are really rough in the afternoons or stay the night at one of the resorts and then go back the next day.
9. Sans Rival. Indeed the pastry shops in Manila faces a tough competition when you taste the heavenly-mouth-watering-to-die-for silvanas from this famous restaurant.
10. Take a walk along the Boulevard at night. There are several gourmet restaurants doting the strip. One can get the traditional grilled seafood dinner, or eat italian, japanese and swiss. "Why Not" was our instant favorite with their breads baked fresh daily. Try the cereal bread which is the best bread in town, by the way. Choose from a variety of pates or ham as filling. Get the curious looking cookies shaped like bread with different flavors and wash it down with coffee.
11. Bethel Hotel. Clean, spacious, quiet, by the sea. It is the best place to stay when you are in the area. Eat the bubod. Suman or sticky rice with millet seeds.